French Hoods and Gable Hoods.
Headwear is one of the most important things to be studied for my ongoing research into trend history as small changes to an accessory is much easier to create overnight than major changes to a whole dress.
In order to establish a rather detailed time line for the fashions of the late middle ages and the renaissance in France and England I set out to study two iconic types of ladies’ headwear: the French hood and the gable hood. No item of either kind of hood has survived to our time, so my study has been limited to painted portraits, preparatory drawings for painted portraits and funeral effigies.
Apart from the time lines my studies resulted in new theories on the construction of the French hood and the gable hood respectively, and reconstructions were created putting the theories to the test.
My findings concerning the French hood resulted in a heavily illustrated paper. “Hidden in Plain Black: the Secrets of the French Hood” is found in the international journal Medieval Clothing and Textiles, vol. 14, published in April 2018. This paper also holds the patterns used for my experimental reconstruction of an English version of the French hood from about 1540. A tutorial video explaining the tailoring involved in the reconstruction of this French hood was created as an appendix to the paper.
Parts of another paper “From Hennin to Hood: An analysis of the Evolution of the Gable Hood Compared to the Evolution of the French Hood” were presented at the International Medieval Congress in Leeds in July 2017. The presentation was accompanied by my experimental reconstruction of a gable hood dating from 1536-1537 as portrayed by Hans Holbein in his portrait of Queen Jane Seymour.